For more than a century, Jūrmala has been where Latvians go to breathe. A narrow stretch of land between forest and sea, a resort town that grew out of wooden villas, sanatoriums and simple summer houses facing the Baltic.
Just a short journey from Riga, it feels like a different rhythm entirely. The town is strung out along the Gulf of Riga, its districts connected by a long sweep of sand and a railway line that once brought holidaymakers from across the Soviet Union. Today, the visitors are more varied, but the appeal is unchanged: fresh air, pine trees, long walks and the sense that time here moves a little slower.
Beach, Light and Baltic Weather
The beach in Jūrmala is its defining feature. A broad band of pale sand runs for many kilometres along the coast, backed by dunes and low pine forest. On clear days the sea appears almost silver, and the horizon feels close and calm. In summer, families spread out along the shore, children run into the shallow water, and the cafés behind the dunes begin to fill.
Even outside the peak season, the beach remains the town's centre. In spring and autumn, locals walk the shoreline in coats and scarves, sometimes scanning the sand for pieces of amber. The weather can change quickly, but that is part of the appeal: Jūrmala is a place defined by its climate as much as its architecture.
Photo by Kristīne Kozaka on Unsplash
Jūrmala's beach stretches for over 30 kilometres along the Baltic coast
Wooden Villas and Spa Traditions
Step away from the water and Jūrmala reveals another side of itself. Streets lined with wooden houses and villas, some carefully restored, others still weathered from previous decades, speak to the town's long history as a health resort. Many of these buildings were constructed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, when sea air and mineral waters were considered essential to a modern, civilised life.
Later, during the Soviet era, Jūrmala became a reward destination. High-ranking officials and workers with the right connections arrived for rest, treatment and time away from the city. The sanatoriums and spa hotels that grew up around this period are still visible, and in recent years a number of them have been refurbished into contemporary wellness hotels. Mud treatments, mineral baths and long walks through the forest remain part of the local tradition.
Majori, Jomas iela and Everyday Life
The district of Majori functions as the town centre. Here, Jomas iela, a pedestrian street that runs parallel to the beach, brings together cafés, small hotels and restaurants. In summer, outdoor terraces fill with conversations in Latvian, English and Russian, while street performers and small events add to the atmosphere. A few streets away, the Jūrmala City Museum traces the story of the resort through old photographs, travel posters and bathing costumes.
Not far from Majori, the pine trees thicken again. Paths lead through dune forest to quieter sections of the beach, where it is possible to walk for long stretches seeing only a handful of other people. It is this contrast between the social and the solitary that gives Jūrmala much of its character.
Nature, Parks and Nearby Landscapes
While the sea is ever-present, Jūrmala is also closely connected to the wetlands and forests inland. To the west lies the landscape of Ķemeri, known for its bogs, boardwalks and birdlife. The wider region links naturally with places like Gauja National Park, often combined with Jūrmala and Cēsis as part of a broader exploration of Latvia's nature.
Within the town itself, parks and forested areas provide space for walking and cycling. On still evenings, the scent of pine is strong in the air. For visitors accustomed to city breaks focused on museums and nightlife, Jūrmala offers something different: a place where the main attractions are the elements themselves — sea, sand, wind and trees.
Seasons in Jūrmala
Although most visitors come in the warmer months, Jūrmala is not solely a summer destination. In late spring, the town is quiet but expectant, with terraces being prepared and the first bathers testing the water. High summer brings longer days, busy beaches and a festival atmosphere.
Autumn is perhaps the most reflective season. The crowds thin, the colours in the forest deepen, and the beach becomes wide and empty again. In winter, when snow occasionally covers the sand and the sea appears almost metallic, Jūrmala feels like a different place altogether. For some, this is when it is most beautiful.
Practical Connections from Riga
Jūrmala's proximity to Riga is part of what makes it so attractive. Regular trains and minibuses link the capital with Majori and other stations along the coast, turning the resort into an easy day trip from the city or a natural extension of time spent in Riga. Many visitors choose to base themselves in the capital and come to Jūrmala for the day; others do the opposite, using the seaside as their base and travelling into Riga when they want museums, galleries and nightlife.
Jūrmala Within Latvia
Seen in isolation, Jūrmala is a classic northern European seaside town with its own history and style. Seen within Latvia as a whole, it forms part of a wider journey: a route that might begin in Riga's old streets, continue through the forests and river valleys of Gauja National Park, and pause in the medieval centre of Cēsis. Together, these places sketch a picture of a country that is compact in size but varied in mood.
For travellers who associate the Baltic region with grey skies and distant headlines, Jūrmala offers a different image: warm sand under bare feet, pine trees shifting in the wind and a town that has welcomed generations of visitors, yet still feels remarkably unhurried.